Our recent trip to Tulum was largely for rest and relaxation purposes, especially after the obstacles that jumped in our way. Still, there were a few occasions where we wanted to leave the sanctity of our little jungle oasis to go exploring. One day, we rented a pair of bicycles from our resort – these turned out to be more in line with mountain bikes than the typical beach cruiser we saw everyone else riding around.
It was a scorcher this day, settling around 90° F (32° C) by 11am, and we set off right when the sun was peaking just past noon. The road outside of our resort was an endless line of dust and sand-colored pavement that seemed to extend towards the horizon. No worries, though, according to Google Maps and the front receptionist, this should be a quick 13 minute ride to the beach and another 15 minutes to the ruins with a nice sea breeze for the second half.
The stretch of road down to the beach had trees on either side, but since the sun was directly above, they didn’t provide any shade to utilize. We made sure to sunscreen up and brought a bottle along with us to reapply when needed. This stretch ended up taking twice as long as anticipated. It drug on and on and on with cars passing by, some giving us plenty of space, others narrowly avoiding us like we just weren’t there.
We finally arrived at the beachfront road (with limited visual access to the beach beyond an extended wall of hotels, restaurants, and clubs) and took a water break before continuing along. We did pass a stretch of beach where we noticed that the sargassum infestation that plagued our Cancun trip two years prior was still abundant. There were piles and piles of the smelly seaweed sitting on the beach and brown pelicans were using it as a resting nest. I didn’t think to take any photo or video of them, but we got to catch a few of these birds diving into the water in search of lunch.
The stretch along the beach was full of trendy looking shops and restaurants, but we were on a mission. A side path for walkers and bikes began after the shops that gave us a little breathing room from the constant traffic as well as a little shade. The rest of the ride was racking up the minutes, though just a brief bit after we were supposed to arrive, we passed by what looked like a gate to the ruins. That turned out to not be the case. That was just the halfway point. We continued past beach club after beach club for a while until we finally approached the gate to the ruins.
A trio of blue-collared shirt clad individuals stopped us to tell us the ruins were closed. At this point, we had been riding for about an hour in the hot sun and just wanted to pause on the side of the road to finish our water, reapply sunscreen, and comprehend the news we were just given. The officials started to offer us alternative excursions that we could purchase at their stand which we declined. I became skeptical that this was just a sales tactic to catch unknowing foreigners before they could get to the ruins.
I saw an American couple come from the other side of the gate who were stopped by the same trio for the sales pitch (there was another entrance on the other side that led to downtown Tulum) so I decided to wait and talk to them when they passed by.
I asked them what was on the other side and they said they thought the ‘closed ruin’ news was a scam too so they continued all the way to the actual entrance to the ruins where they were turned away, confirming the closure. We later were told by a different employee at our resort that there was a confirmed COVID case at the ruins and they were closed for sanitation.
After a brief sigh, our ride back was slow but steady. We passed some big iguanas and a coati that seemed to be overly comfortable with two local guys, acting like their pet. We stopped at a pharmacy on the way back to pick up some water and a little rest. I like to think I’m in good shape and I usually have no issue with endurance, but this ride kicked my butt.
Upon arriving back at our resort, lounging by the pool was the only to-do for the rest of the day.